We had reserved time on the water with Nick Leadley back in 2019, to guide us on a canoe trip in the hopes of seeing Loons. We had anticipated a flight into Boston, then a rental car trip to Maine in spring, 2020. You all know what happened next…so when we began to plan our summer 2024 vanlife travels, John reached back out to Nick to reschedule. Once our outing with him was confirmed, we built a lot of our June-July travels around that date, which includes immersion in thick, green, mossy forests and camping in remote campgrounds.
Nick is the perfect guide! He is thoroughly familiar with the waters, access points, and wildlife happenings in the northern Maine area. As an avid birder, wildlife photographer, and Loon expert (his blog says he is a Loon fanatic!), Nick truly possesses the attributes of the consumate guide. I was impressed with the silence with which we moved through the water–he paddles with ease, using a Native American paddling style that keeps the paddle in the water, minimizing noise and splash. His mellow personality, reverence for the Mother Earth’s gifts, and his respect for the environment were particularly appealing as we chatted some during our morning on the water in the 3-person canoe. We did not chat a lot however, as we were captivated by the exquisite beauty.
We could hear the Loons making their soulful calls as we pushed off from shore at 0530. The light is best early in the morning, mist rises from the water, and it is so marvelously quiet. This river is wide and slow moving, Nick was able to paddle the sturdy canoe with ease, and with just a few strokes, we saw the first adult Loon with its chick.
One of John’s life dreams was to be near enough to Loons to see the chick “backriding” — the utterly fabulous moment(s) when a chick hops onto the back of its parent for warmth, rest, and protection.
Over the ensuing hours, we witnessed the Loons, together and separately, responding in their alarm mode when a Bald Eagle flew overhead–a truly primordial behavior. We watched the parents catch fish after fish which they tenderized for the chick, who would then swallow it whole.
Nick told us about the various calls Loons make and the postures they assume in response to location inquiry, alarm, territory claim, or to warn their chick to dive. When the eagle flew over, that is exactly what the chick did — respond to its parental call to dive as a protection. We watched them preen and groom, rest, and dive for fish. Often their dives ended with them popping up ~ 10 feet from the canoe! We never expected to be so close! Nick was sure to maintain a respectful distance from the Loon family, which we appreciated, yet we were thrilled when one of the adults swam near us.
I wanted to write this blog quickly to share how terrific Nick Leadley is as a guide, and human. John made a lot of photos — the most he’s ever made during one excursion, so I’m including the first few he has sent me so I can get this out. I encourage you to engage Nick to schedule a time out on the water with him when you are in northwest part of Maine. He is an excellent birding guide!
